It is famous for being the busiest port in South Africa. The region that makes up Durban has been inhabited since , BC, however the modern history of the city did not begin until Under British Lieutenant F. Farewell, a crew of twenty-five men arrived from the Cape Colony and established a settlement on the northern shore of Port Natal. Henry Francis Flynn, an adventurer, was successful in befriending the Zulu King Shaka after helping him recover from a stab wound. In return, Shaka granted the men a mile strip of coast.
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An expanse of bush in the Zulu heartland big enough to fit more than 30, football fields, and inhabited by lions, rhino, cheetahs, elephants and hippos. The grasslands click with cicada insects and, from the bushes, mischievous, red-eyed drongos mimic the song of other other birds. Think a series of traditional Zulu circular boma huts that are the same shade of rusting copper as the earth on which they stand.
Thatched roofs and authentic cobblestone fireplaces, yes — but Thanda is also a glittering temple to South African art: a beaded chief chairs that depict men decapitating snakes with their swords, here; the arresting wooden sculpture of a woman wearing a flaring red Zulu headdress there. My favourite installation was a near-life-sized rhino made from polished branches.
The lodge is high up enough to benefit from a revivifying breeze, and the air is always edged with the succulent smell of acacia trees. Service is friendly, discreet and understated; staff at the lodge were always at the ready to ask if I wanted a drink or assistance when I lounged in the public areas, but, apart from that, they were happy to leave me to my own devices.
The guides for the game drives are deeply knowledgeable and full of stories about the even the obscurest of plants and animals. Their voices almost quiver with rapture when they talk about the bush, and their delirious excitement when they come across the fresh dung of a cheetah or rhino during a game drive makes you feel part of a very special animal-viewing quest. There are two game drives each day, and complimentary safari photography lessons are bookable.
The lodge also has a library and spa with treatments with ingredients sourced from the local wild. This is where Thanda distinguishes itself from other lodges; not so much rooms as nine mini Zulu villas, with humongous balconies that feature a plunge pool and outdoor shower. They also have circular shaded sofa-cum-beds to read a book while listening to the squeaking churr of the pin-tailed whydahs in the nearby trees.
Artwork is incorporated into the interiors, such as Zulu necklaces displayed behind glass, and intriguing bed nets made from metal twisted around local stones.